Uno, Japan
I used Uno, a charming port town, as my basecamp for exploring Naoshima, the art island. Naoshima has been on my bucket list for several years and I finally made the trek out that way. I had no expectations for Uno but it proved to be a delightful place to visit for a couple days and mega convenient for visiting Naoshima.
To reach Uno, I took a ~3 hour bullet train from Tokyo to Okayama, passing through Kyoto on the way. From Okayama, I grabbed a local train to Uno (the last stop on that train line). The ferries for Naoshima depart across the street from Uno Station. I took both ferries because I visited both the east and west sides of the island. See my Naoshima post for details and this link for ferry timetables.
Below I’ll cover what to do in Uno, where to stay in Uno, AND most importantly — where to eat in Uno.
Dining
I went to an INCREDIBLE pizza restaurant, Voga, on my first night — great vibes. I sat at the bar counter and ordered a Margherita pizza. The pizza was exceptional and I would have loved to have eaten the whole thing but couldn’t do it. The next night I went to a cute taco restaurant, Ocean Village, where I had fish and shrimp tacos. (Editor’s Note: this is a Hannah-food-choices-judgement-free zone).
I took a nice little walk around the port for a delicious coffee at Bollard Coffee one morning. I sat and watched the ferries depart and waited for my Naoshima ferry that left later in the afternoon. I also stopped by UPINN Cafe for a quick breakfast sandwich. Quick, easy, and had a good view of the ferries so I could make sure I didn’t mess anything up and show up late.
LOdging
Should you stay in Uno or Naoshima? I opted to stay in Uno instead of Naoshima since lodging options on Naoshima were limited — especially because I was booking just a day in advance. The Benesse House is apparently an amazing place to stay on Naoshima but quite expensive. I stayed at Uno Hotel in a 10-person shared dorm for about 7200 YEN/ night. The hotel has private rooms available, but I don’t have an income - hence, a shared dorm! The hotel was right across the street from the station and the ferries. They had a large breakfast in their on-site restaurant for only 2000 YEN, plus the stay came with free day passes to the nearby onsen. My room was impeccably clean and felt very private with the dividers. They also lent out a set of cute pajamas as well. The bathrooms were shared but I never saw anyone there.
Funny story: One girl was coughing up a lung all night and another was talking loudly on the phone early one morning. These are shared room no-no’s and I hated both of these girls. Then one morning I came back from a shower and realized my alarm had been going off for about 20 minutes. HOSTEL FAIL. Luckily it was after 9am, but I still felt embarrassed and was sorry I had judged my other roommates so harshly. We all failed each other.
Onsen
The nearby onsen was a great resource. Make sure to remove your shoes before walking up to the front desk! The front desk will give you clothes and a kit to bring around the spa and then you can spend the whole day there. I booked a massage on my walk to the changing rooms. Google Translate was my friend! TBH I am incredibly uncomfortable with public nudity (hence why I’ve never gone to the famous Wi Spa in LA) so the first night I stuck with the massage and didn’t bother with the onsen. I went back the next day and got another massage and finally braved the onsen. You have to disrobe in the changing room and then shower thoroughly before getting into the hot baths. I managed to sit through 20 minutes of this uncomfortable torture before giving up and heading back to my hotel. WE GROW BY BEING UNCOMFORTABLE.
If you’re planning a trip to Naoshima, consider making Uno your basecamp. It’s convenient, charming, and budget-friendly! See my detailed Naoshima post for guidance on a visit to the art island! Also check out my Japan Travel Guide for some tips on navigating the country.
